Complete Guide to Wet Set Lashes (Eyelash Extensions)

The wet set lash look exploded on the beauty scene a couple of years ago. Today, it’s a staple style that’s perfect for anyone who wants an edgy-glam or anime-inspired look.

Wet set lashes are an extension technique that delivers the glossy and spiky effect of mascara, but about 10 times more flattering.In this guide, we explore you need to know about wet set lashes, from how they’re achieved to who they’re for, how they can be tailored to you, and how to get them at home with DIY lash clusters. 

Table of Contents

The main defining feature of a wet set is that it’s created with closed volume flares. In volume lash extensions, a flare is a bundle of multiple fine extension lashes. Each flare is attached to one natural lash, which creates significant volume. 

Typically, the lashes in a flare are fanned out to create a very fluffy effect. In a wet set, the lash stylist keeps the lash extension flares closed for that “just got out of the water” clumpy look. 

While less common, a wet set can also be created with hybrid lash extensions, which is a technique that alternates volume flares with single extension lashes. It results in a more textured look.

The most important thing when creating a professional wet set is to use appropriate extension lashes. That means volume lashes with a 0.03-0.07 mm diameter, ideally in a few different lengths. If you opt for a hybrid wet set, the single extensions will be a little thicker. 

The lashes themselves can have a reflective finish, or your lash stylist can finish the look with a shiny sealing coat. The lashes can come in any curl, length, or color, based on your unique preferences and what your natural lashes can support. 

The wet set lash technique can be adapted into a lot of different lash styles, to uniquely flatter your eye shape. This means it can look good on everyone just as long as it fits your taste and vibe. 

1. A doll eye or open eye wet set will include longer lashes above the center of your eye, with shorter lashes on the inner and outer corner. Having more length near the center of the eye creates the illusion of larger, rounder eyes, so it’s especially flattering for those with narrow or small eyes. 
2. A cat eye wet set will feature longer lashes at the outer corner of the eye. The gradual effect going from shorter to longer lashes helps lift and elongate the eyes. It’s extremely popular for all eye shapes, and is especially flattering for those with close together or downturned eyes. 
3. An eyeliner effect lash map is a popular modern technique. It features M-curved lashes near the outer corner of the eye. The straight out and up angle creates a very dark, dense effect at the base of the lash line, and mimics a sharp eyeliner wing at the outer corner of the eye, so it’s great for achieving a “fox eye” effect. 

What Wet Sets Are Not

There is no safe way to clump together several classic lashes, so wet sets cannot be created with the classic lash extension technique, where a single extension is attached to each natural lash. Wet sets are also not possible with mega volume lashes, where the intense density of ultra-fine extensions makes it very difficult to achieve defined, spiky flares. 

While most lash artists promise that a wet set will last just as long as any other volume set, many lash enthusiasts find that the longevity is more in line with classic extensions. Of course, this can vary from person to person, but on the longest end of the scale, you can expect to retain at least some of your wet set lashes for up to 6 weeks. That said, it’s important to get refills at least once every 2-3 weeks to maintain your look and avoid paying for a full set each time. 

Daily Care (Do & Don’t)

Proper maintenance will help you increase lash retention while also keeping your eyes safe from irritation or infection.

1. Cleanse your lash line on a daily basis using an oil-free lash shampoo and a soft brush. 
2. After cleansing, dry your lash extensions carefully with a soft cloth — avoid abrasive towels.
3. Detangle your lashes with a lash brush or spoolie at least twice a day — don’t worry, brushing won’t disturb the lash flares.
4. Avoid using products that contain oil or heavy emollients near the lash line, as oils can dissolve the lash adhesive.
5. Try to avoid rubbing, touching, or picking at your lashes.
6. Get in the habit of sleeping on your back, and use a domed sleep mask for added protection.
7. Pay attention to signs of irritation or adhesive allergies — a little bit of redness is okay, but lasting discomfort and side effects may require seeking medical care.

You don’t have to splurge on expensive professional extensions, or spend hours at the salon. With Lilac St. lash clusters, you can even create the wet set look at home. Lilac St. lash extensions are a DIY option designed for an easy, natural-looking under-lash application. 

They come in clusters and multiple lengths, so you even adjust your lash map to suit your eye shape. Here are our top lash styles for achieving different variations on wet set lashes: 

Feather

Lilac’s Feather lashes are great for a subtle wet set look. They have a more natural-looking spikiness with smaller flares and a lot of length variation. They’re a great choice if you’re torn between wispy lashes and wet set lashes. 

Midnight

If you’re looking for a slightly bolder wet set look that still has some wispiness, our Midnight lashes are ideal. They’re not overly spiky and have a texture, hybrid feel with tightly criss-crossing extensions. 

Hollywood

Lilac’s Hollywood clusters bring drama and glam. They’re ultra-spiky with a bit of a taper, for volume at the base of the lash and negative space over the lid — perfect for opening up the eyes. 

Met Gala 

For something even more unique, Lilac’s Met Gala lashes have larger spikes with a more intense triangle-shaped taper. They’re very graphic and bold, for when you’re in the mood to draw attention.  

Brazil

Lilac’s Brazil lashes feature large, long spikes without tapering, for a more dramatic, straight lash look. They’re a unique option that’s great for stacking with other clusters. 

There can be some overlap between wispy lashes and wet sets, but they’re not exactly the same. With a wet set, the look always features spiky lash flares, while the main defining feature of wispy lashes is that there is a lot of length variation. If you combine both elements, you can have a wispy wet set. 

Are wet sets good for hooded or deep-set eyes?

Yes! The negative space that wet set lashes create over the lid can help open up the eyes, so it greatly flatters hooded eyes. The look can also be very flattering for deep set eyes, especially if you opt for more reserved length and thickness.

Can I wear mascara or eyeliner with wet sets?

It’s not recommended. It can be difficult to remove mascara without damaging or pulling off your lash extensions. With eyeliner, choose a non-waterproof eyeliner that you can remove easily with oil-free products. 

I have sensitive eyes — can I still get a wet set?

Lash extensions aren’t always appropriate for sensitive eyes. You might still be able to get a wet set, but there is a risk of eye or skin irritation. Ask your stylist if you can book a test application with a single lash, to see how your eyes respond. Consider getting classic lashes your first time, as the application tends to be faster and less intensive.  

What if I don’t like bold spikes?

Wet set lashes don’t have to be very big or bold. If you like the glossy, wispy look, let your lash stylist know you want a more subtle wet set with smaller lash flares.